Friday, February 4, 2011

Quiche for Caroline!

My friend Caroline is having a baby boy this month.  Any minute now, really.  My friend Aja and I decided to host a brunch for Caroline a few weeks ago so that she could have a little girl time before the new little bundle of joy arrives.  Brunch=quiche, right?  Well, we thought so. 

Aja and I had a practice run the weekend before the brunch, and we made a quiche with broccoli, apples, and cheddar cheese.  Although we used recipes from Thomas Keller's Bouchon  for the crust and the custard, I feel fairly confident that Mr. Keller would not have sanctioned this combination of ingredients.  Nevertheless, the crust was so beautiful that we did eat quite a lot of the quiche.  And by we, I mean I ate quite a lot of the quiche.  Waste not, want not, right? Here's how it went:
Me: What do you want to work on?
Aja: Well, I've always had a fear of making crust, so
Me: Great!  So you'll make the crust and I'll make the filling.
Aja: *rolls eyes and grunts* fine.

Aja no longer has a fear of making crust.  In fact, I would venture a guess that she could show you exactly how to make crust!

Crust is scary until you've made it.  The key points are: use very cold, very good ingredients, don't overmix the dough, and let your dough rest.  It's really not that hard.  And it is SO worth the small amount of effort required.  I am not above occasionally using a Pilsbury roll-out crust, but you just can't buy it this good.  You will be happier with a homemade crust every time.

Having tested the recipe and found ourselves to be competent quiche-makers, Aja and I set out the next weekend to make a quiche lorraine and a smoked tomato and spinach quiche.  We used my stovetop smoker to smoke the tomatoes and sauteed the spinach with a little shallot and olive oil.  The quiche lorraine was straight out of Bouchon.  They were both beautiful and delicious, and I strongly recommend that you make at least one of them and have your friends over for brunch!

I know that, when you look at this recipe and see the length of the instructions for the crust, you'll think it looks hard because they are so very long, but trust me...it's just very specific.  It is easy, just try it.

Quiche with broccoli, apples, and cheddar, adapted from Thomas Keller's Bouchon
Serves eight generously

3 cups blanched broccoli florets
1 granny smith apple, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced
1 1/2 cups cheddar cheese, grated


For the crust:
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 ounces (1 stick) butter, cut into small cubes and chilled
1/4 cup ice water
canola oil

Place 1 cup of the flour and the salt into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook.  Turn the mixer to low and add the butter one small handful at a time.  When all of the butter has been added, increase the speed to medium and mix until the butter is completely blended with the flour.  Reduce the speed and add the remaining flour, mix just to combine.  Add the water and mix until incorporated.  The dough will gather around the paddle and should feel smooth, not sticky, to the touch.  Pat the dough into a disc and wrap in plastic wrap and let the dough rest in the refrigerator for at least one hour and up to 24.  Brush the inside of a 9-inch cake pan with canola oil and place it on a baking sheet.  The baking sheet will catch any little pieces of crust that fall off and will keep your house from being filled with smoke. 

Place the dough on a  floured work surface and sprinkle flour over the dough.  Use a floured rolling pin to create a circle about 14 inches in diameter.  While you roll the dough out, you must constantly move it.  Roll once, then turn the dough circle, roll again, turn the dough, etc...  This will keep the dough from sticking to the countertop.  To move the dough from the countertop to the pan, place the rolling pin across the dough about a qaurter of the way up the circle and gently roll the dough circle onto the pin.  Lift the rolling pin, move the dough to the pan, and unroll it over said pan.  Gently tuck the dough into the edges of the pan, trying not to tear it, but don't worry too much if you do tear the dough, because you can just patch it with a little extra dough.  Trim any dough that hangs more than an inch over the side of the pan and reserve it for patching.  Fold the excess dough over the sides of the pan so that it drapes all around the edges of the pan.  The draping dough will help keep the crust from shrinking too much as it bakes.  Place the pan with the dough into the refrigerator to rest for about twenty minutes.  In the meantime, preheat the oven to 375.

Line the raw quiche shell with parchment paper, and fill the paper-lined crust completely with pie weights, dried beans, or uncooked rice.  Bake the shell for 35-45 minutes, until the edges of the shell are lightly brown but the center is still light in color.  Remove the parchment and weights and check for holes or cracks.  Patch as needed with reserved dough.  Bake for another 15-20 minutes without the weights and parchment until the shell is a deep golden brown.  Remove the shell from the oven and allow to cool completely before filling it.

For the custard:
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
6 large eggs
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
6 gratings fresh nutmeg

Combine the milk and cream over medium heat in a medium saucepan until scalded (a skin begins to form on the surface).  Remove from the heat and let cool for 15 minutes before continuing.

Combine all custard ingredients in a large bowl and mix well with an immersion blender.  If you do not have an immersion blender, you can mix the custard in batches in a regular blender.

Scatter the bottom of the cooled quiche shell with broccoli florets, about 1/2 cup of cheese and half of the apple slices (or whatever other filing you like!).  Top with half of the custard mixture.  Top with the remaining broccoli and apples and another 1/2 cup cheese, the add the rest of the custard mixture, and top with the remaining 1/2 cup of cheese. 

Bake the quiche at 325 degrees for 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours, until the top of the quiche is browned and the custard is set.  If you jiggle the pan, the middle of the quiche should not appear to be too loose.  Remove the quiche from the oven and allow to cool completely.  Once the quiche is cooled, remove the excess crust around the edges of the pan with a serrated knife.  Enjoy at room temperature or re-warm one piece at a time in a 375 oven for about 10 minutes.

1 comment:

  1. I've been trying to learn to make great quiche for a few months. Your recipe adapted from Keller looks very good. How deep was your quiche? Mine usually are not very deep though I know they should be to achieve the proper custard/quiche texture. It seems you have a weakness for cookbooks; I notice them mentioned in your blog posts. I too have many, many books. I read them at lunch and at night like others read novels.

    ReplyDelete